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Preserving Textiles from WWI and WWII: Uniform, Flags, Insignia, and More

Collecting and preserving textiles from the First and Second World Wars is not only a hobby for militaria enthusiasts but also a valuable contribution to the historical preservation of military heritage. Uniforms, flags, insignia, patches, field coverings, and other fabric objects tell us unique stories about conscription, conflict, national identity, and personal sacrifice. However, these objects are also extremely fragile. In this article, we explore why preserving these textile items is so important, the risks involved, and how collectors can responsibly care for these historical pieces.

Why Preserve Wartime Textiles?

Military textiles from WWI and WWII provide a tangible connection to the past. Unlike weapons or documents, fabric objects often carry personal traces: names stitched into collars, blood or mud stains, worn-out elbows from years of trench warfare, or explicit symbolism in flags and patches. These physical remnants of the past are not only historically relevant but can also have deep emotional impact. Many collectors say that textile items speak to the imagination the most—just the idea that someone wore a certain uniform during D-Day or that a flag was raised after the liberation adds tremendous value.

For historians and museums, these objects are invaluable. They provide insight into the materials used, the daily life of soldiers, and changes in uniform design and military organization. For example, wool was widely used during WWI, while WWII uniforms often used blends of wool and cotton due to shortages and changing production methods.

These items also show evidence of technological advancements in the textile industry. The development of synthetic materials like rayon and later nylon began during WWII and was used in parachutes, belts, and uniform components. This makes them of interest from a technological research perspective as well.

Women sewing buttons in WWI – Industries of War – Uniforms – Overcoats

For collectors, preserving these pieces is not just a personal pastime, but a form of cultural stewardship.

The Gravest Enemies of Military Textiles

Textiles are naturally vulnerable to deterioration. The main causes of damage to wartime textiles are:

  1. Light – UV radiation breaks down fibers and fades colors.
  2. Humidity and temperature – Fluctuations promote mold and fiber decay.
  3. Insects – Moths and carpet beetles feed on animal fibers like wool.
  4. Mechanical stress – Folding, hanging by buttons or shoulders, and frequent handling cause wear.
  5. Acids – Old storage boxes or plastic bags can release acids that degrade fabric.

An original German field jacket from 1942, for instance, can turn into a brittle, discolored piece of cloth within years if stored improperly. Prevention is therefore essential.

Original WWII German Navy uniform – Coastal artillery – Feldbluse Obergefreiter der Küstenartillerie – Norway (slowly deteriorating stitches on insignia and quality of textile)

Damage often happens slowly. A uniform that looks fine today may suddenly tear upon touch a year later. Preventive action is always better than reactive repair.

Practical Guidelines for Preserving Military Textiles

  1. Storage and Environment

Textiles should be stored in a stable environment, with a temperature around 18°C and relative humidity at about 50%. Use a hygrometer to monitor this—place it in a central location away from direct sunlight or heat sources. In homes, humidity between 40% and 60% is ideal; for textiles, the median (50%) is best. Hygrometers are available from around €10. Use acid-free boxes, unbleached cotton paper, or Tyvek as packing materials. Uniforms are best stored lying flat rather than hanging, to avoid stress on seams. This may disappoint some collectors who enjoy displaying items on mannequins, but keeping them stored is the best way to prevent damage until display at a show or event.

If your collection is in an unheated space like a shed or attic, consider using a data logger to monitor temperature and humidity over time. These devices can warn you about risky conditions, like excess moisture or heat.

  • Folding and Support

If the object is large and cannot lie completely flat, such as flags or coats, use soft padding along folds to avoid permanent creasing. Use unscented, acid-free tissue paper (Tyvek) to fill folds. For helmets with fabric liners, pad the interior with soft cloth to avoid deformation.

  • Labeling and Documentation

Documentation is often overlooked. Record provenance, place of discovery, purchase date, and any notable features. Photos taken before and after conservation are helpful for future generations. Use spreadsheets or apps like “Collector Systems” for organized recordkeeping.

It’s also useful to include stories with items, such as family heirlooms or finds with unique backgrounds. This not only increases the value but also enriches the object’s historical meaning.

  • Cleaning? Only with Expertise

Washing historical uniforms is strongly discouraged. Even a “gentle hand wash” can cause irreparable damage. Dirt and sweat can indeed be harmful long-term, but their removal should only be done by a textile conservator. An exception is for loose dust particles, which can be removed carefully with a soft brush or HEPA vacuum on low suction.

Cover the vacuum nozzle with a nylon stocking to prevent small parts from being sucked up.

  • Exhibition: Balancing Display and Protection

If you wish to display your collection, use UV-filtering glass in display cases and limit lighting to 50 lux for sensitive materials like silk or wool. While costly, this investment prevents permanent damage. Keep pieces packed and in the dark during transport. Avoid long-term display—rotate items every few months to let them “rest” in dark storage.

Add historical photos or stories alongside objects to provide context. This enhances their meaning without subjecting them to unnecessary lighting or unsafe hanging methods—standard practice for experienced collectors or vendors.

Special Categories of Textile

Uniforms

Often heavy and composed of various fabrics, buttons, linings, and insignia. Watch for metal patches that can corrode surrounding fabric. Store separately if not sewn on. Uniforms with leather parts (e.g., collars or belts) need extra care as leather and fabric react differently to moisture and light.

Flags

Usually made of light materials and therefore especially sensitive to light. WWII parachute fabric flags can tear under minimal tension. Store flags rolled around an acid-free core or folded with soft interlayers. Avoid metal pins or plastic sleeves, which cause long-term damage.

Patches and Insignia

Loose patches can easily discolor or deform. Store flat in acid-free folders. Be aware that glue residues or metal parts may rust and damage nearby textiles. Use Mylar sleeves or Tyvek holders for (acid)safe storage.

The Impact of Chemical Warfare on Textiles

Chemical weapons like mustard gas were used during both world wars. Uniforms exposed to these agents could discolor, weaken, or retain toxic residues. Though it’s rare for museum or collector pieces today to be dangerous, it’s still advisable to avoid direct skin contact and document the item’s history thoroughly.

Signs of chemical exposure include:

  • Musterd gas: Yellow-brown staining, often splattered or uneven.
  • Chlorine gas: Pale or greenish discoloration.
  • Occurs mostly on natural fibers like wool or cotton.
  • Fabric feels brittle or powdery, especially at seams and shoulders.
  • Fibers may snap or crumble easily.
  • A lingering chemical or soapy smell despite age.
  • This smell often is a result of old residues instead of mold or moisture.
  • If buttons or insignia are degraded without an obvious source of moisture or rust, this may indicate chemical reactions caused by gas residue.
  • Metal parts may corrode unusually or crystalize.
  • Damage often seen on exposed areas of the uniform like sleeves or collars.
  • Parts under equipment are often left untouched, which can provide contrast within one piece.
WWII Gas Identification Posters, ca. 1941-1945 (US ARMY)

Differences in Textile Production

Materials and finishes varied widely by country and period. German uniforms from late WWII are often lower quality than early-war ones due to material shortages. British uniforms are usually more consistent thanks to centralized production. Recognizing these differences helps identify fakes and understand historical context (and no, it’s not just about British vs. German designs!).

Speaking of fakes: the wartime textile market is not immune to forgeries. Reproductions are sometimes artificially aged to appear genuine. Look for inconsistent stitching, modern materials, strange smells, fake labels, and unnatural wear patterns. Training and consultation with experts or forums are recommended.

Personal Equipment

Think of cloth-lined helmet covers, fabric shoulder straps, or field coverings. These often have not just museum value but emotional value too. Owning a field belt from a family member, for example, is like holding a piece of personal history.

Handkerchiefs, wristbands, or insignia on homemade fabric are often unique, handmade objects. They require special attention due to their rarity and fragility.

Handkerchief, soevenir cloth, Japanese Surrender, WWII silk cloth, printed with news of Japanese surrender –
Creative Commons Attribution 4.0

Legal Aspects and Educational Value

Some countries regulate the possession or display of textiles with certain symbols (e.g., swastikas on Nazi uniforms). There may also be export restrictions on military heritage. Check your country’s laws before buying or selling sensitive pieces.

WWI and WWII textiles aren’t just for collectors or museums. Schools, universities, and memorial institutions use them in educational programs. As a collector, you can contribute by loaning items or giving talks about your collection. In doing so, you literally give history a face.

Restoration or Conservation?

Restoration means altering or repairing the item; conservation means preserving it as-is. In the militaria world, restoration can be controversial—especially with rare items. A British battledress jacket with original shrapnel damage is usually more valued in unrestored condition. Leave restoration to professionals, and when in doubt, always choose preservation over alteration.

Minor fixes like replacing loose buttons may be acceptable—if well-documented and done with period-accurate materials.

WWII Exhibition – Imperial War Museum, London – Soviet Russian Red Army torn uniform tunic – smock gymnastyorka Prisoner of War –
Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 2.0

Conclusion: A Collector’s Duty of Care

Military textiles from WWI and WWII deserve careful attention—not only for their historical and aesthetic value but out of respect for the men and women who wore and handled them. By collecting responsibly through proper storage, documentation, and conservation, you help keep the stories alive that might otherwise be lost.

A well-preserved uniform is more than fabric and thread—it’s a testimony to courage, loss, and the complex reality of war. So handle them with care!

Bas de Vries – 30-6-2025

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